Machote: Fashioning the Feminine in Masculine Dress
In creating the sketch for this particular task, the pivotal challenge was to balance the inclusion of subtle feminine elements, while creating a look that could overtly be read as masculine. Given the climate of current perceptions of masculinity, it would have seemed too sudden to conceive this message by utilizing obvious elements such as, say, a floral motif lace, or heavy sequin work. This is not to say that in the long-run that these prominently femininely gendered material aspects cannot be incorporated eventually, but that it seemed more practical to exploit an angle of understatement such that the introduction of femininity could be eased into the structure of the garment thus forming its reception implicitly. When the idea of masculinity is conjured, it tends to be characterized by thoughts of violence, dominance, confidence, virility, and a confidence approaching arrogance. These coded adjectives mapped neatly onto the codex of machismo, which in particularly American culture is imbued from an early age to create the proverbial “tough guys”, or what has titularly been referred to as the machote.
So, if this is the sketch of the socially-constructed proper man, how is the feminine—the assumedly antithetical concept—thence to be seamlessly melded into the sphere of masculinity through fashion as an intercession? In what manner could this blurring of gender lines be posited in order to one, not fall prey to the utter deconstruction of sexed (different for physiological purposes) garments, two, to not be introduced under the trend of androgyny, and three, to recognize gender differences, but solely mitigate the aversion to certain fashion elements consequent to their association with the feminine? Incorporating visual elements of masculinely associated plaid, woven into a femininely associated iridescent taffeta fashioned into an asymmetrical tailored jacket that evokes the aura of the fantasy character that represents all aspects of gruff, and poised masculinity all whilst projecting a peculiar flamboyance: the matador.
Photos by Nathan Scott







